What is Gesha?
Gesha coffee is one of the most sought-after coffee varieties in the world, known for its intensely floral flavour profile, tea-like body and record-breaking auction prices. Originally discovered in Ethiopia, it rose to global fame after the 2004 Best of Panama auction.
In a nutshell
I don't think any coffee variety has made a wave in the industry more than Gesha - the fame of this variety exploded during the 2004 Panama auction where the Peterson family of Hacienda La Esmeralda submitted a lot called the 'Esmeralda special', a Panamanian grown Gesha.
At the time, very little was known about the variety; it had come to Panama in the 1960s and been fairly widely distributed by CATIE due to its noted resistance to leaf rust.
In the few years that followed, some farm owners opted to replace the original Panamanian Gesha, due to the low yield potential and susceptibility to Coffee Berry Disease and Nematodes. Additionally, they are brittle, high maintenance plants. Many of these Gesha plants made way for other varieties like Caturra and Catuai, which provided higher yields and could be planted in much higher densities.
So what caused a sickly, low yielding, high maintenance plant become the most famous coffee variety in the world?
It turns out that Gesha had a secret quality, that was not really evaluated for until the specialty movement came around... Cup Quality.
The Best of Panama Auctions
In 1996, the Specialty Coffee Association of Panama began organising yearly auctions to showcase the country's highest-quality coffees. Judges from around the world were invited to taste the lots, and these were then auctioned to global buyers.
This was a pivotal moment in the history of Panamanian coffee culture.
The competition went on for a few years until a turning point arrived in 2004, when first-time entrants 'Hacienda La Esmeralda' by the Peterson Family brought with them 'Esmeralda Special', a Washed Process Gesha from their farm Jaramillo. This was the first time that Gesha was presented in isolation and not part of a blend.
The judges noted the extremely pronounced florals (jasmine & bergamot) and awarded the Esmeralda Special first place. When the Gesha went up for auction, it achieved a final bid of $21/lb, shattering all previous records and cemented the legacy of the Gesha coffee variety.
The 2004 Auction was probably the most pivotal event in specialty coffee history and laid the foundation for modern specialty coffee.
What does Gesha coffee taste like?
Gesha coffee typically is known for tasting like Jasmine, Bergamot, Apricot and other floral characteristics. However, there are many factors that determine what Gesha will taste like, such as the terroir, processing method and farm methodology.
The easiest to discern is Natural Gesha vs Washed Gesha. Here's a brief explanation of the differences between the two.
Natural Gesha vs Washed Gesha - Flavour Differences
Washed Gesha
Washed Gesha coffees are renowned for having bright acidity, Jasmine florals and stone fruit flavours such as apricot, in addition to a very delicate, tea-like body. It's not uncommon to also find characteristics like red and orange fruits, lemon, bergamot and other citrus fruits.
Natural Gesha
Natural Gesha coffees are renowned for having high levels of fruit-sweetness, jasmine and bergamot florals and a silky body. It's not uncommon to also find characteristics like lemongrass, candied apple, lemon, Kiwi and other tropical fruits.
The Gesha Hallmark
Of all of the varieties that I have tried, Gesha is the one with the most defining hallmark, that lets the consumer know that they are drinking a Gesha, regardless of processing method and terroir expression.
For me, this is the tactility of the coffee; almost regardless of the coffee's origin and processing method (although more heavily processed coffees are harder to identify), it is so obvious to me when I am tasting a Gesha, even in a blind setting. The tactile quality of Gesha is so unique and distinct that it's unmistakable, and no other varieties seem to mimic this.
Gesha Vs Sidra - What's the difference?
In short: Gesha is more floral, tea-like and consistent in profile, while Sidra tends to be more fruit-driven, adaptable and higher yielding.
Occasionally you might hear Sidra coined as the next 'Gesha Killer'.
Another variety often discussed alongside Gesha and Sidra is Pink Bourbon, which is also prized for its floral, tea-like and high-clarity cup profile.
- Both Gesha and Sidra delineate from Ethiopian Heirlooms
- Both share similar flavour characteristics
- Both produce high quality beans
- Both gained fame through competition
Where Can I Buy Gesha Coffee?
You can buy Gesha coffee from our offerings.
As luck would have it, our Gesha from Diofanor Ruiz is currently available.
Take your brewing game to the next level:
Espresso lovers can also find our guide on the Best Coffee Tampers.
Filter coffee lovers can find our guide on the Best Pourover Filter Coffee Recipes.
Find your perfect coffee from Harmony's selection of coffee beans.
About the Author
Ben is the Head of Coffee at Harmony Coffee, a competition barista and trainer with over a decade in specialty coffee. He’s trained hundreds of baristas, competed in UK coffee championships, and spends an unreasonable amount of time writing about coffee varieties.
